Milan fashion week was, well, indescribable.
#dudewiththesign was on the FROW at the Dolce and Gabbana runway. Gucci’s show invite was a Whatsapp voice note from Alessandro Michele. Philipp Plein paid a controversial tribute (with the help of Olivia Culpo and Jada Pinkett Smith) to Kobe Bryant, his daughter Gianna and the others who tragically passed with them in a helicopter crash last month.
When it comes to the fashion the mainstream highlights were Etro, enhancing the silhouette with waist-belts; Marni persuading us to fall in love with asymmetry again and Moschino sending a model down the runway dressed as a Marie Antoinette-inspired cake.
Fendi was inclusive to all sizes and ages; Prada played with femininity; Versace paraded an array of enviable slip dresses; and, of course, Bottega Veneta gave us the ‘Jellyfish Bag’.
Despite a coronavirus outbreak, the show still went on. Giorgio Armani hosted his show in an empty room, livestreaming it on armani.com.
Nevertheless, there was still plenty to see at Milan Fashion week and plenty of Instagram moments as well. Here’s a look at five designers at Milan fashion week you should be following on IG.
Antonio Marras (@antoniomarrasofficial)
Almost a dedication to his late mentor, Maria Lai, the collection was inspired by the whimsical stories she once told him about magic and fairies. Everything was magical, romantic and had a narrative, the garments were charming despite the dark neutral palette.
Jacquard, check, sequins and lace were combined with the lightest ‘floaty’ fabrics gave a feminine feel to the clothes. Oversized jumpers and shirts which had embroidered and detachable collars highlighted the importance of layering; Marras’ collection has rightly been described as ‘interesting clothing for interesting people.’
25 pieces was all it took for Sara Onsi to completely captivate Milan. Onsi showcased her newly launched haute couture and prêt-à-porter collection: ‘HER’ which was a mix of haute couture and bridal.
Egyptian influence in luxury couture is a message that women should embrace their uniqueness. Strong silhouettes were achieved through embroidery, lace and cut outs. The intention was to use colour and embellishments to highlight the natural shape of the women wearing them.
This small Italian atelier founded by Vivi Ponti has always held the environment and sustainability at its heart since opening its doors in 2008. This was a priority in the AW20 show as 30% of the textiles used in the collection are sustainable.
Most designs were adorned with small nods to the world, from flower appliqués on grey wool, 3D details on the collars of suits, green gloves, red apples on coats and skirts and trees, rivers and fences on jackets and vests. The collection was a lesson in laid-back layering and tailoring, so if you want to look chic, feel comfy and live sustainably then Vivetta’s AW20 garments are for you.
Marco de Vincenzo (@marcodevincenzo)
This collection was ‘through the eyes of a child’ Marco de Vincenzo used the odd proportions from children’s drawings and the angles from their perspective to create an unusual collection.
Brooches bigger than ones hand were pinned to dresses, buttons on cardigans were the same, these little and odd adjustments seem ridiculous yet somehow worked with each garment. Heels on shoes were enormous, earrings were actually magnifying glasses, satin collars on blouses were stretched and distorted to make them look more like lapels and sleeves were so long they covered hands; basically every detail was accentuated to a level of extravagance that still remained elegant.
Tights covered in rhinestones were a key highlight, sequins, snakeskin and satin were the textures of choice. The collection reminds you of the magic of childhood innocence and in a time were the world seems doom and gloom, Vincenzo’s collection is the escape we need.
Sensual, glamorous yet androgynous was the theme for Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s 10th anniversary of MFW. Arguably one of the most wearable AW20 collections from Milan it celebrated the different facets of womanhood; elegant, rebellious with just a little bit of sex appeal and a dose of masculinity.
A masculine tailored shirt worn as a dress, tweed LBD’s with chain straps, coats and a mid length black dress were adorned with floral embellishments and cut outs down the right-hand side were some of the highlights. Leather shirts and asymmetric skirts vs sheer necklines and tailored coats; a collection that showcased femininity mixed with punk, all whilst sticking to the brands signature style.
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